How to do a compost pile

Put the right stuff in

Good things to compost include vegetable peelings, fruit waste, teabags, plant prunings and grass cuttings. These are fast to break down and provide important nitrogen as well as moisture. It’s also good to include things such as cardboard egg boxes, scrunched up paper and fallen leaves.

By turning more frequently (about every 2-4 weeks), you will produce compost more quickly. Waiting at least two weeks allows the center of the pile to heat up and promotes maximum bacterial activity. The average composter turns the pile every 4-5 weeks.

Ideally site your compost bin in a reasonably sunny spot on bare soil. The reason you should site your bin on soil is that it makes it very easy for beneficial microbes and insects to gain access to the rotting material. It also allows for better aeration and drainage, both important to successful composting.

By placing them in the shade, they will be more protected from the elements and less likely to dry out. As for a regular compost bin, direct sunlight does not cause the compost pile to heat up. The microbes working busily inside the compost are why the pile heats up.

If you happen to find maggots in your compost, first of all, don’t panic. Remember, they are harmless and actually quite helpful. But if you’d like to eliminate maggots from your compost bins, here are some tips: Add more browns: Your compost should be a balance of wet and dry materials.

You can put your compost pile in the sun or in the shade, but putting it in the sun will hasten the composting process. Sun helps increase the temperature, so the bacteria and fungi work faster. This also means that your pile will dry out faster, especially in warm southern climates.

It is very important to keep water and temperature in balance in a compost heap. The bacteria need water to assist the decomposition process, but too much water will slow down or stop the process completely. Water should be added little and often, but only as necessary.

In most cases, a compost pile does not need a cover. A cover can limit airflow and water, interfering with the composting process. You should definitely cover finished compost. Otherwise, if it’s exposed to the elements, the compost will break down further and lose nutrients as they leach into the surrounding soil.

Too Much Water

When your compost pile is too wet, the organisms breaking down the organic material don’t function as effectively. Many of these organisms need air as well as water, and in a well-balanced compost pile, there are plenty of air gaps between the pieces of organic matter.

Turning the pile frequently allows more oxygen to the microorganisms that are creating your compost, which in turn accelerates decomposition. Aerating it every couple of days will create compost faster than aerating it weekly. Water the pile in dry weather to keep it damp, but not soggy.

If your compost heap is too wet, dig it out completely, then turn the ingredients to incorporate more air before restacking. Add dry materials into the mix to get a balance of greens and browns, improve drainage and prevent the compost from clogging up again.

The slow release of nutrients from compost helps grow healthy plants. But compost that is not matured correctly might harm or even kill your plants. And, using too much compost can smother and kill plants.

Compost is one of the best garden amendments available. You can plant in straight compost, but I suggest incorporating it into your sandy garden soil or mixing it with other additives if you want to use it for container plantings.

Compost is an essential ingredient in the best soil for a raised garden bed, no matter which mix of ingredients you choose. I filled my beds with about 3/4 triple mix, and even though it had compost in it, I top-dressed the garden with about ¼ compost.

Much like the name implies, direct composting involves putting your composting materials directly into the flower bed or garden area. This saves time, since you won’t have to transfer your compost from bin to garden. And it may also save your back from turning the pile and using the shovel and wheelbarrow!

Bad leaves for composting: Bad leaves are those higher in lignin and lower in nitrogen and calcium. These include beech, oak, holly, and sweet chestnut. Also, make sure to avoid using leaves of black walnut and eucalyptus as these plants contain natural herbicides that will prevent seeds from germinating.

Improving the soil with plenty of organic matter in the form of compost helps drainage and aeration on heavy soils and conserves essential moisture on light ones. Don’t dig soil for the sake of it. Once planted, the ground can be enriched by mulching and allowing worms to help incorporate it.

To maintain healthy soil, you should add a thick layer of compost – at least 2-3″ – every year. If you’re using homemade compost, it’s best to add it in early fall so that by spring, it will have broken down and worked itself into the soil. Adding a thick layer of compost in the fall also helps reduce weeds.

Deciding Between Compost and Fertilizer

Others prefer to use fertilizer to supply plants with specific nutrients that may be lacking in the soil. Often, however, the best solution is to use both. Compost works well with fertilizer, sponging up and storing the nutrients until they’re needed by the garden plants.